Audiguet Cal. 45Art Deco Platinum & Diamond, Marked J.L. Roehrich
Circa 1945 · Platinum
$15,000
An Art Deco rectangular wristwatch in solid platinum, the case hand-chased and set with 48 round-cut diamonds totaling an estimated 0.65 carats. The movement is signed Audiguet Cal. 45, Audemars Piguet's discreet sub-brand for the late-1940s American market, and bears the marking "J. L. Roehrich" for AP's New York agent of the period. Presented on a black crocodile strap.
Specifications
- Year
- 1945
- Era
- 1940s
- Case Material
- Platinum
- Movement
- Manual
- Caliber
- Audiguet Cal. 45
- Condition
- Good
Dial
Lacquered dial with a small chip in the lacquer at the 4:30 position, dial has additional chips near 12 and wear seen when opening the case back, visible on close inspection.
Condition Notes
Movement runs and keeps time. Lacquered dial with a small chip at the 4:30 position, visible on close inspection, dial has additional chips near 12 and wear seen when opening the case back. Crystal is clear. All 48 diamonds present in their settings. Black crocodile strap (replacement).
Provenance
Remontorium collection. Acquired from a Neiman Marcus estate, March 2026.
About this watch
This is an Audemars Piguet's Audiguet, a mid-century sub-brand of the famed atelier. It is among only a handful Audiguet examples documented, and is even more rare being marked with a movement by AP's official New York agent of the period, Jean Louis Roehrich of 599 Fifth Avenue.
The Audiguet name
"Audiguet" was registered by Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus on 19 June 1945. It served as a second-line trademark for watches finished in-house at the manufacture but built around movements sourced from outside ebauche suppliers, a programme that allowed AP to broaden its commercial reach during the difficult years that followed the war. The brand was active for less than a decade and produced very few watches relative to AP's main line; surviving examples are rare in any market and rarer still in platinum.
The case
Solid platinum, in a rectangular Art Deco form with hand-chased filigree along the bezel and lugs. Set with 48 round-cut diamonds, total weight estimated at approximately 0.65 carats. The Audiguet signature is hidden on the movement rather than displayed on the dial.
The dial
Lacquered, with a small chip in the lacquer at the 4:30 position and some small chips near 12. The dial is very fragile and due to the nature of the case and how the movement is seated in the movement ring every opening/closing of the case back may cause damage to the dial.
The movement
Audiguet Cal. 45, manually wound. The movement carries a "J. L. Roehrich" marking, identifying it as having passed through Audemars Piguet's official United States agent before AP took its American distribution in-house in 1948.
Condition
Runs and keeps time. All 48 diamonds present in their settings. Crystal is clear. Strap is a black crocodile replacement.
Provenance
Acquired in March 2026 from a Neiman Marcus estate.
Further reading: Audiguet: The Audemars Piguet Sub-Brand That Helped Save the Company and History Forgot.